Hometown of the Tsinoys (Filipinos of Chinese descent), our very own Binondo is easily the world’s oldest Chinatown, having been founded in 1594 to house an already-bustling Chinese merchant community. In fact, when its counterparts in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok were mere backwater settlements, Binundok (Binondo’s original name) was already a thriving, vital commercial center in colonial-era Manila. To this day, it remains a hardworking business district, its streets still looking much like they did centuries ago.
What to see
The heart of Manila’s Chinatown is Ongpin Street. Walk through the Chinese archway on its eastern end, and discover a decidedly un-Filipino world of smoking joss sticks, dragon statues and bright red paper lanterns. Saunter onwards to its other side to find the massive Binondo Church, which bears a curious mix of Spanish baroque and traditional Chinese architecture.
Where to shop
The stores along Ongpin Street carry a wide variety of trinkets, statues, and decor for any self-respecting Chinese. There’s also a tiny outlet of the city’s last known manufacturer of alpombras – colorful traditional beaded slippers — near the church. By far, Manila Chinatown’s biggest shopping draw is the dozens of gold jewelry shops, which the locals swear are the cheapest in the city. These you can find right under the pagoda arch at the end of Ongpin.
What to eat
Ongpin Street is a grazer’s delight. It’s possible to have a full meal on foot. Hop from one food stall to the other, and munch on traditional Chinese fare like pan-fried siopao meat dumplings and crunchy sugarcoating yu tiao fritters.
What to ride
Clip-clopping followed by a whinny signal a kalesa. This horse-drawn carriage, the turn-of-the-19th century transport, remains a popular means of getting around Binondo.